A Journey Through the Seto Inland Sea – Beauty, Art, Flavors, and Memories
Japan is known for its iconic sights—Mt. Fuji, Kyoto temples, neon-lit Tokyo streets—but nestled quietly between Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu lies a hidden gem: the Seto Inland Sea (瀬戸内海). With its gentle waves, sun-drenched islands, and cultural richness, it’s one of my favorite places in Japan. I was lucky to experience it on two wheels, riding along the Shimanami Kaido, and I’ve never forgotten the calm beauty and vibrant flavors that defined the trip.
🏝️ A Different Side of Japan: The Seto Inland Sea
The Seto Inland Sea isn’t dramatic or flashy—it’s quiet, subtle, and deeply beautiful. While the rest of Japan may conjure images of bullet trains, neon cityscapes, or snow-capped mountains, this region invites you to slow down. Here, it’s all about gentle waves, wide skies, and island-dotted horizons.
Nestled between Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu, the Seto Sea is protected from the harsh weather of the Pacific, giving it a mild, dry climate with more sunny days than most places in Japan. The air smells faintly of salt and citrus. The sunsets linger just a little longer. It’s no wonder people often compare it to the Mediterranean—not just for the weather, but for the laid-back, coastal atmosphere.
Its hundreds of small islands are linked by ferries and bridges, each offering its own charm—whether that’s sleepy fishing villages, citrus orchards, or modern art installations on quiet beaches. Life moves at a different pace here, and that’s exactly what makes it special.
This natural environment doesn’t just shape the mood—it defines the flavors, the culture, and the creativity that make Setouchi one of Japan’s most quietly captivating regions.
🍋 Flavors of the Seto Sea: Treasures from Land and Water
The Seto Inland Sea isn’t just beautiful—it’s delicious. Thanks to its mild, dry climate and calm coastal environment, the region is home to some of Japan’s most distinctive produce and culinary traditions.
🍊 Yuzu and Citrus Galore
Setouchi is famous for its citrus fruits, especially yuzu, lemon, and iyokan. The long hours of sunshine and well-drained hillsides make it ideal for growing fragrant, flavorful citrus. You’ll find everything from freshly squeezed juices to candied peels, sauces, bath salts, and even yuzu-scented incense. The scent of citrus somehow feels woven into daily life here.
🫒 Japanese Olives from Shodoshima
Yes—Japan grows olives! And Setouchi is where it happens. Shodoshima, one of the region’s most famous islands, was the birthplace of Japanese olive cultivation over a century ago. The island’s warm weather and salty breeze make it perfect for growing olives, and it now produces olive oil, skincare products, and even olive-fed wagyu beef.
🧂 Sea Salt & Seafood
The calm, shallow waters of the Seto Sea are perfect for traditional sea salt production, and some local producers still make it the old-fashioned way, using sun and wind to evaporate the water.
Add to that the region’s rich fishing culture—including octopus, sea bream (鯛), and small whitebait (しらす)—and you’ve got a cuisine that’s light, clean, and deeply connected to the sea.
🍜 Local Specialties You Might Not Expect
- Sanuki Udon from nearby Kagawa (technically not in the sea, but culturally tied to the region)
- Citrus-infused vinegars and dressings
- Soy sauce from Shodoshima, where traditional wooden barrels are still used
Whether you’re eating at a seaside inn or browsing a roadside gift shop, you’re never far from a flavor shaped by Setouchi’s sun, soil, and sea.
🍽️ A Taste of Setouchi: Koyomi, Shodoshima
If you’re visiting Shodoshima, I highly recommend Koyomi (こよみ)—a tiny, locally loved restaurant tucked into the island’s quiet hills. Housed in a renovated kominka (traditional Japanese house) with a serene view of the Seto Inland Sea, it’s the kind of place that invites you to slow down. The owner-chef creates beautifully plated, seasonal dishes that blend Japanese home-style cooking with creative touches, using fresh island ingredients like local vegetables, seafood, and olives.
🕊️ Reservations recommended, as seating is very limited
🎨 Setouchi Triennale: Art Breathing New Life into Island Life
One of the most remarkable things about the Seto Inland Sea is how it’s become a canvas—not just for nature, but for contemporary art. The Setouchi Triennale (瀬戸内国際芸術祭), held every three years and spread across three seasons—spring, summer, and autumn, transforms quiet island communities into vibrant hubs of creativity.
The festival began in 2010 as a way to revitalize depopulated islands, and it’s done exactly that. Instead of building flashy attractions, it invites artists to work with the local environment, history, and people, often repurposing old homes, schools, and industrial buildings into artworks. From a giant pumpkin sculpture on Naoshima’s pier to immersive experiences in abandoned houses on Teshima, the festival merges modern imagination with rustic charm in ways that feel authentic and deeply rooted.
🧭 I visited in the summer of 2019, and the experience of hopping from island to island by ferry, discovering unexpected art pieces in quiet fishing villages, left a lasting impression. This year, I’m planning to return in the fall—another beautiful season in Setouchi, with golden light and fewer crowds (hopefully).
The Triennale also encourages island hopping, connecting places like Naoshima, Teshima, Shodoshima, Inujima, Ogijima, and more. Even outside the official festival period, many permanent artworks remain, making it worth visiting any time of year.
🔗 Official Setouchi Triennale Website (English)
https://setouchi-artfest.jp/en/
🚴♀️ Shimanami Kaido: Biking Across the Seto Inland Sea
One of the best ways to experience the Seto Inland Sea is not by car or ferry—but by bicycle. The Shimanami Kaido is a 70km cycling route that connects Japan’s main island Honshu to Shikoku, hopping across six scenic islands via a series of elegant suspension bridges. It runs from Onomichi (Hiroshima Prefecture) to Imabari (Ehime Prefecture), offering stunning sea views, peaceful backroads, and a chance to experience island life up close.
I rode the Shimanami Kaido a couple of years ago, and it’s still one of my most memorable travel experiences in Japan. The route is well-marked and beginner-friendly, with gentle gradients and panoramic viewpoints that invite you to stop often. I recommend taking it slow over 2–3 days and staying in a minshuku or guesthouse on one of the islands—it’s the best way to immerse yourself in the quiet charm of Setouchi.
There are bike rental terminals at both ends of the route (Onomichi and Imabari), and even at several points along the way, making the route flexible. Most people rent their bike in Onomichi and return it in Imabari, and one-way rentals are easy to arrange, so you don’t have to worry about making the round trip. If you’re carrying luggage, you can also use luggage forwarding services to have your bags sent to your accommodation—ideal for a more comfortable ride.
A fun side note: if you're cycling in the summer like I did, just be aware that some island guesthouses are a little... nostalgic. Mine had no air conditioning, and I ended up taking four showers in one day just to cool down. 😅 Definitely pack sunscreen, hydrate often, and maybe bring a portable fan if you're heat-sensitive!
🚲 Where to Stay: A Bike-Friendly Guesthouse
If you're looking for a social atmosphere, I highly recommend staying at Cyclonoie—a bike-friendly guesthouse along the route. They offer secure bike storage, repair tools, and a welcoming space where you can meet and interact with fellow travelers. It’s a great spot to swap stories, get local tips, and recharge before continuing your ride.
🧵 Imabari: Japan’s Towel Capital
Before we wrap up, it’s worth highlighting Imabari, the city at the Shimanami Kaido’s end and Japan’s most famous towel-producing region. Known for their exceptional softness, absorbency, and craftsmanship, Imabari towels are beloved throughout the country—and beyond. The city is even home to a Towel Museum, where you can explore the history and artistry behind these luxurious everyday items.
If you're looking to bring a piece of Setouchi comfort home, an Imabari towel makes for a perfect souvenir or thoughtful gift.
🛍 Bring the Setouchi Feeling Home
If you’ve been inspired by the gentle sun and refreshing breeze of the Seto Inland Sea, here are a few hand-picked items from my store that capture the essence of the region:
🍊 Yuzu Essentials
Thanks to Setouchi’s mild climate, yuzu (Japanese citrus) thrives in the area, especially in places like Shikoku. Its invigorating scent and skin-loving properties make it a beloved ingredient in Japanese self-care.
- Yuzu Sunscreen: Lightweight, non-sticky, and gently scented with real yuzu—perfect for sun-soaked adventures.
- Yuzu Hand Cream: Keeps your hands soft and hydrated, with a subtle citrus aroma that lifts your mood.
- Yuzu Facial Masks: A relaxing at-home spa treat with moisturizing and brightening benefits.
🧖♀️ Imabari Towel
Experience the craftsmanship of Japan’s towel capital with our Imabari towel selection. Whether as a daily essential or a thoughtful gift, these towels are soft, absorbent, and long-lasting—just like the ones you'll find in top ryokan inns across Japan.
✨ Until Next Time
Setouchi offers something truly different from the rest of Japan. If you're like me and love being near the sea and ocean, this region is a beautiful, peaceful place to explore—one that lingers in your memory long after you leave.
Thanks for reading!
